If any one cares, I followed this procedure by Amon_RA. It was a little disconcerting that there were no checksums for many of the files, though. The same procedure is outlined in more detail and in easier-to-consume-for-linux-noobs format at the unlockr.com. (If you follow TheUnlockr's text, be sure to keep reading to the second page - I just read through the first page and was puzzled why the rooting procedure seemed to end with the flashing of a 32A ROM for a phone with a 32B board.)
Aside from that, I haven't done much else except to install SetCPU to play around with overclocking. Maybe I'll add a swap partition to the SD - still on the fence about that, or perhaps swipe 10MB from the GPU for RAM.
I'd like to hear any app, theme, ROM suggestions. A friend suggested several of the eclair-based ROMs, but since HTC hasn't released the firmware yet, and CM seems to be the most popular, I figured I'd just run with CM for now.